Amalfi’s turquoise waters and vibrant resort atmosphere may look picture perfect on postcards; but what truly brings it alive are its people.
At Steinbeck’s time, Positano was a sleepy fishing village filled with pastel-hued pastel buildings, playfully concealing an intimidating cliffside with playful pastel patterns and welcoming to both dandies and carpenters alike.
Bus is the best way to experience this extraordinary place, especially during high season when traffic on SS163 will likely become congested with many tourist buses.
1. The towns
Consider your travel style and itinerary when selecting an Amalfi Coast town to stay. For example, if day trips and tours are part of your plans, such as visiting Amalfi or Positano as they provide easy transportation hubs with quick access to nearby attractions; otherwise consider smaller towns such as Praiano or Ravello that provide more leisurely stays.
Amalfi was once an economic powerhouse along the Italian coastline and now stands as an oasis for boutiques and restaurants. Its cathedral, the Duomo di Amalfi, is revered for its amalgam of Arabic-Norman, Romanesque and Byzantine styles; Amalfi serves as the hub of some of the region’s scenic hiking trails such as Path of Gods.
Amalfi lies at the heart of Amalfi Coast and serves as an ideal starting point for day trips to Naples and Pompeii. Its primary draw, however, is the Fiordo di Furore Fjord which carves through steep cliffs into an exquisite natural harbor. Additionally, Amalfi boasts numerous luxury hotels such as Le Sirenuse.
Minori is an idyllic hilltop retreat for foodies and nature enthusiasts, boasting terraces dotted with vineyards and lemon trees as well as restaurants renowned for fresh pasta made in-house daily. Aside from being renowned for its culinary delights, Minori also has an interesting backstory: according to legend, Hercules fell in love with Amalfi who later perished at sea but her remains were brought ashore where the town built a church in her memory.
2. The beaches
UNESCO-protected coastline boasts picturesque postcard beaches that rival those in townships above them, which make this region a major draw. As such, beaches can become overrun with visitors during the summer season; to avoid crowds it may be worthwhile going early or selecting less-popular beaches.
Marina Grande beach in Amalfi town is perhaps the most renowned of all Amalfi Coast beaches. Surrounded by dramatic cliffs, this pebbly beach is a bustling hub where locals and vacationers alike flock to lounge in orange-and-green striped umbrellas while taking advantage of crystal clear waters that provide excellent swimming or diving conditions. Nearby restaurants also serve delicious seafood dishes and salads to round out this experience.
Spiaggia Santa Croce is another wonderful option, providing peaceful seclusion under a rocky island’s shadow. Not like other spiaggie, Spiaggia Santa Croce can only be reached via boat – adding intimacy to this idyllic stretch of shoreline.
Amalfi Coast beaches are best visited during May when temperatures are warm but not overbearing, and its vertiginous towns have not become overrun with visitors. June and September also provide wonderful sea and sun activities; just be wary that crowds might increase slightly.
3. The food
Foodies know the Amalfi Coast to be an ultimate delight, with each coastal village and town having their own signature cuisine and offering visitors an authentic experience of its history, culture and landscape.
Positano, Ravello and Amalfi are among the region’s premier destinations, but during peak season these popular towns can quickly become overrun with visitors. But if you venture a bit off-beaten path to towns like Nerano or Vietri sul Mare you might discover gems hidden from sight that remain unseen by most tourists.
Ndunderi, an ancient Roman pasta dish made of spelt flour combined with cheese (usually pecorino or ricotta ) dates back centuries. This delicious pasta usually features fresh tomato sauce and basil as accompaniments.
Delicious Lemon Delight – Delizia al Limon (Lemon Delight). A light and refreshing way to end any meal. Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi is home to one of Italy’s longest standing pastry shops since 1830; be sure to visit when in Amalfi.
No meal on the Amalfi Coast would be complete without finishing with a shot of Limoncello, produced locally and providing an exciting way to connect with its rich culinary tradition.
4. The shopping
Azure blue waters lapping sandy beaches, cradling limestone cliffs and cascading down hillside hillsides with rainbow hues; no wonder that the Amalfi Coast has inspired artists, designers and craftspeople alike who capture its effortless beauty in numerous forms; perfume to paper to wood inlay to ceramics have all reimagined this region in trendy yet timeless fashions.
Shoppers visiting Amalfi Coast towns like Positano have an abundance of stores and boutiques on Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi to choose from, like JP Boutique for vibrant designer apparel or Antichi Sapori d’Amalfi for artisanal trinkets.
As a souvenir from the Amalfi Coast, pick up a set of handmade ceramic dishes or vase from Vietri sul Mare as they were handmade there. Or shop Moda Mare Positano for crochet costumes and long beach dresses featuring strips of lace; finally don’t forget Praiano where there is still one remaining luthier that specializes in mandolins!
An impressive souvenir from the Amalfi Coast would be handcrafted sandals made by Alfonso Dattilo’s legendary shoe shop in Maiori – they can even be custom fitted! Alfonso offers quality custom made footwear at competitive rates that is worth visiting, for both adults and children alike.
Spring and autumn are ideal times for visiting Amalfi Coast, when temperatures are comfortable enough for swimming but still cool enough for touring its winding coastal roads. Summer can be too sweltering and overcrowded to enjoy as you will have more chance at finding accommodations, restaurants, shops and attractions when crowds dissipate – although even if you can’t visit during these off-season months there are still plenty of things to see and do here!
5. The people
The Amalfi Coast is more than a series of picturesque beaches and lush scenery; it is also the inspiration behind numerous stories and legends passed down through generations.
One of the most infamous legends from Greek mythology involves Hercules, one of its legendary heroes. After she tragically perished, he built her a city on Amalfi Coast as a way of honoring her memory.
Amalfi Coast was an integral player in Mediterranean trade, selling goods such as wood, salt, iron, arms and fruits to Eastern markets for spices, perfume, jewels and silk – becoming one of the world’s most powerful maritime republics in the process. Amalfi even created its own legal code during this era that eventually formed the basis for modern maritime law.
As Amalfi Coast became a favored tourist spot, people began building villas and vacation homes along its picturesque coastline. By the end of Roman rule, this area was home to luxurious resorts and boutique shops offering high-end services.
Over the centuries, the Amalfi Coast has long been a sought-after tourist spot by royalty, dignitaries, and celebrities from around the globe. Popular sites include Pompeii’s Ruins, Capri Island and its Blue Grotto.
Overtourism has become an issue in recent years, with locals often blaming tourists for skyrocketing rent prices and declining quality of life. There are ways you can help ensure this beautiful region stays just as spectacular: for instance choosing to stay in a hotel, hostel, or villa rather than renting an apartment can support local economy while providing better accommodations for long-term residents.